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I am part of the new texas crew building boats to hopefully race this summer. We started building early april, and i wanted to post some pictures of the process, and journey so far. The rigging is the part i am struggling with. I have a 1988 johnson, and am not sure what control and other parts are needed to get the throttle setup going. If anyone knows, and can provide guidance i would appreciate it.
Hi TX,
Each of us has our own preference about how we rig our boats, so I can only tell you what approach I took. I use Uflex control boxes and cables. I rig each motor with it’s own box. Here is a photo of the boxes:
If you contact Uflex they will tell you which cables and connectors to use with your motor. It is pretty straightforward and they are very helpful.
My 6hp is a 1992 Johnson and you basically cannot find the parts to rig the motor and box for remote transmission shifting. Most racers who have not been able to rig their motor for remote shifting use only the remote throttle lever and shift the transmission on the motor itself. It is a little awkward at first, but you get used to it quickly. I hope that this helps.
Jeff Weeber
High Gravity 1.100
Ripped the tape off, and the paint looks pretty good.
My son is a big help with this project.
The Metal flake looks cool.
And the big reveal…
A couple clear coats of varnish will really make it PoP!
Looks great TX! I am no expert with varnishing TX and can only tell you what I did, which was light sanding between coats with 400 paper and no sanding on the last coat. I am sure that there are CCWBRA members with lots of experience with varnish who could give you some good advice.
I hope this isn’t too late, but here is some info from a friend that gave me his recipe for finishing epoxy. He used to race small hydroplane racers and has a lot of experience and good advice.
Epoxy- I use 120 grit between coats with orbital palm sander, needs to be dull all over for next coat in order for mechanical bond. Last coat before varnish I sand epoxy with 220 grit with orbital then hand sand with 360 wet with some dish soap in water. I use low to medium revs on the sander. Any swirls left in the epoxy will be visible later. If you get the coats on at the right time there can be a somewhat chemical bond, depends on temp and tack condition of epoxy, this approach certainly saves time and labor but the last coat needs to be sanded for varnish or paint.
I apply the epoxy with 3/16″ thick x 9″ long yellow foam roller by Wooster(Lowes SKU 71497 11626 might have got it a Home Depot you can check with SKU)and tip with a 4″ foam brush (Walmart) for large areas. These rollers fit standard roller handle they can be cut shorter and they make a 7″ roller to fit these roller tubes. They are not reusable, hard to get all epoxy out. They do make small foam rollers that fit on the small pin type handles. When all the epoxy is rolled on I do the applied area with a final roller to get as uniform as I can, then tip in one direction with the foam brush to knock the bubbles off.
BTW you can clean up un-cured still flow-able epoxy with white vinegar, cheap and non toxic to skin.
For varnish I sand between coats with 360 wet with some dish soap in water. 3 coats of varnish is all that is needed to protect epoxy unless you want more. I use Minwax Spar Varnish Clear Gloss oil base and roll it on with the same type roller as with the epoxy and tip it with a foam brush. When all the varnish is rolled on I do the applied area with a final roller to get as uniform as I can, then tip in one direction with the foam brush to knock the bubbles off. For small areas I just use the foam brush. Get the varnish on quick and uniform, that is the key no need to work up a lather. Always work the varnish from dry to the last wet edge. I always test the varnish for flow-out for the conditions of the day if it does not lay down in 5 minutes with a perfect gloss I add some paint thinner. When temps are above 85 to hot for varnish. I shoot for 75 in the am for best results.
If you want to buff the last coat of varnish let it dry for about a week or two then 3,000 wet sand with (Walmart automotive) 3M polish finishing pad. Add dish soap to water, wipe dry then hand sand with 5000 wet (might be hard to find) with dish soap. I then machine buff with a foam pad (about 1″ thick) with a variable speed Harbor Freight machine (low to medium rpm) using Turtle wax scratch and swirl remover about $3 at Walmart.
If you do not want to buff, then leave the last varnish coat alone and it is what it is.
I use alcohol to wipe down between coats of epoxy or varnish then a tack cloth.
Ask any questions about above, engine set up, etc. , keep me posted, nice boat and work. Looks like a fun ride.
Pete Sushinsky
Rick Loewen
Rumrunner SE Fleet Captain
It’s 5 O’ Clock Somewhere #500
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