- This topic has 7 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
It occurred to me that the CLC steering kit’s 1/2-inch threaded rod, turning in its designated holes, might cause some wear and tear on the wood areas in which it turns.
I thought that this might be alleviated by having the rod turn inside a length of rigid 1/2-inch tubing of copper, PVC, or stainless steel. I measured the rod at 0.495 inches, and it’s a loose, easy fit in 1/2-inch copper plumbing tubing. I have some PVC electrical conduit in the garage which I’ll test-fit as well.
Two questions for other builders:
1. On your boats, have you seen any wear or deterioration or chewing up of the holes in which this rod turns?
1. Is this a good idea, or is it more trouble than it’s worth?
Marty,We’re not using the supplied steering system. Cameron bought the hub from Browning Machine. This is application is completely different. Cam determined that the dash alone was not strong enough from CLC.. Also we will configure the steering in a more direct system … rigged from one side … The wheel feels more like a sports car with about 3/4 stop to stop instead of a set up where you have to turn the wheel better than a full revolution to achieve the same stop to stop… TK
Sounds good, that will be interesting to see.
We’re rank amateurs in the boat building business, so we have to go with the path of least resistance. Hopefully we’ll get some more responses here about steering systems.
By the way, the threaded rod is also an easy, loose fit in 1/2-inch PVC electrical conduit. I conveniently happen to have a piece of that in my garage.
Marty, Cameron was fortunate enough to drive a number of other boats before building our first boat#888. We did talk to other members about various areas of the process and things to watch out for during the build. As far as getting members help from the Forum page… “Lots of Luck” … As you have noticed the Site activity is negligible, besides you and I there is no input from anyone else. … This is due to the transition from the old site to the new site … The new site has been neglected therefore less and less members frequent it due to lack of interest. And believe me there are some great knowledgeable members that would go over backwards to help on your build …
<i> If we still had our members directory I could point you out to some great knowledgeable builders who could really help you out. But they no longer, as said before, frequent the site … </i>
Yes, not much action on the forum, but I post anyway because our experience might be helpful to others.
We’ve “hung out” at a few races and found the other members, as you state, to be very friendly and helpful. There’ll be more of that next season because we’ll finally finish the boat then. We’ll especially need motor purchasing and motor mounting advice, angle of the wedge and all that.
We’re fairly handy and capable with mechanical things–I do almost all of my own motorcycle work–so no worries there.
Marty, since you are in to mechanics the motor end should not be a hill for you … Cameron and I have a Professional Mechanical Back Ground.. We have purchased a Post 79 Rue and a 8 HP Tohatsu. At this time we have not decided if we are going to go the classics route.. Also to see which way the wind blows on the 4 stroke Tohatsu Six’s…
We are getting help and guidance from other members (stated above) about what you mentioned about the wedge, angle, etc. We will be glad to forward any information that we have learned, and would appreciate the same from you . Thanks TK
Marty, as far as wedge,angle, etc.. This will be trial and error in most cases. No two props are alike even though they may be designated as such. This is true of the boat and how it was constructed. Sam Wearly and I constructed and raced a great deal in the AOMCI 3 HP Events (Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc.)… Set up everything in a “ball park” configuration and finesse from there. And take plenty of notes… TK
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.