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Hi All,
I am currently building a cocktail racer. I have a question about control box cables. Which type do I need for a 6 Hp Tohatsu using a unflex control box? Also, what length is good? Thanks in advance
My understanding from what I’ve read on this forum is that you have to use the Tohatsu control.
The CCWBRA group purchase package for the Tohatsu motor includes a control box, 2 cables, and a remote conversion kit.
Hey there Andy. I have never heard of a unflex control box but maybe you mean ultraflex. I use ultraflex controls for all my motors. The rule book only states the certain model 6hp 4 stroke motors and props that must be used. Nothing about the controls, so I am sure you can use the ultraflex. It is a universal control box and you should be able to buy teleflex cables that will adapt to the tohatsu as I did for my Tohatsu 8hp. The standard length I believe is 8ft but you can get them made at 6ft and is a much cleaner look. Hopes this helps.
Cameron Walker
Hi Andy. I hope that your build is going well. Cameron hit the nail on the head as far as I am concerned. I use Ultraflex control boxes on all of my motors as well, and I have a separate box for each motor, though many builders use just one box and change out the fittings to handle different motors. The Ultraflex boxes are much less expensive than the manufacturer controls. Here is what the control looks like:
If you call Ultraflex (941 351 2628) they can tell you which cables to buy and which fittings you will need to mate the cable to your motor. Unfortunately, when I built my boat I was not able to find any 6 ft. cables, so I have 7 ft. cables and have one of those big weird loops in each cable. But, it works, so I am good with it.
Good luck with your build!
Andy, let us know here how it goes with that control box and the Tohatsu motor. While we’re committed to the Tohatsu control because that’s what I thought we needed, and we already have it, we also have an Ultraflex box purchased along with the boat kit.
I recently purchased the Tohatsu and ordered all the parts on the list. I also have the Ultraflex box for my OMC motors, but I like the traditional single lever control that Tohatsu uses. I have found that someone that is not used to using separate shift and throttle levers has difficulty a little difficulty with dual controls.
If I had it to do over, I would not have spent the money on the cable harness and parts for the Tohatsu kill switch. I have a nice kill switch mounted in the cockpit and it was simple to wire in the same manner as the OMC motors.Rick
Andy, we have both an Ultraflex kit and the Tohatsu remote control parts.
The Tohatsu cables are 3/8-inch diameter, the Ultraflex are 1/4-inch. That doesn’t mean much, but it does mean that the Tohatsu cables are more substantial than the Ultraflex.
We compared the cable ends of the Ultraflex with the ends of the Tohatsu, and they were different, although I don’t remember what the difference was. This means that the Ultraflex will not be a direct fit in place of the Tohatsu cables in the motor. I don’t know what that means in the real world, because we decided to use the Tohatsu control box.
If you are within range of Central Maryland (Baltimore), we can arrange to have you come over and have a look at what we’re doing. We’re in the process of modifying the Brown thrust bracket and installing the remote control, wedge, motor, and thrust bracket. We’ll be working on it next weekend (17-18 July 2021).
Hey Marty, Thank you for the update. I am very interested in Brown thrust bracket and the wedge. I would like to see how it was modify to work because I have one as well. I would like to come see your boat but I live in North Carolina.
Andy
Marty, I will be very interested in what you have to do to modify the Brown thrust bracket for the Tohatsu motor, as I am about to order a Tohatsu 6hp to replace my old OMC engine. Looking at the online vendors, it looks like the Tohatsu model number for the 6hp has changed from what it was when the group buy happened. What I find now is “MFS6DWS”, which is the short shaft (15″) 6hp with external tank. Is that the same engine as what others here have?
We have a black Tohatsu MFS6DS. I think the “W” in yours might be the color, white. The vendor I bought it from (not Annapolis Inflatables) told me that it’s the current version.
Alan Brown’s Tohatsu 6hp thrust bracket was developed on a non-kit boat with a 10-degree angled transom section and no drain plug at the bottom, as you can see on his web site photos of it. The bracket sits under and against the cavitation fin. Our bracket will sit above the cavitation fin so as not to foul the drain cock. We’ll eventually find out how well that works.
We might get the boat launched and the motor broken in later this season so we get some real-life experience with it.
My boatbuilding partner Jack and I have finished the Tohatsu thrust bracket modification for a CLC kit boat. We have test-fitted it to the boat, with the bracket assembly screwed into the motor clamp, and the wooden wedge screwed into the transom.
The bracket now lands above the small cavitation fin on the propeller shaft instead of below it.
If you want a more detailed e-mail with photos, reply here with an e-mail address or phone number, and I’ll send it to you. I’ve not been able to post photos here for a while.
We’ll be at the Maryland Yacht Club race this saturday with the wedge and the bracket for anyone who is interested in seeing what we did. Look for our “150” tee-shirt.
If you post an e-mail address here, I can send you a longer description of what we did, with some photos.
Marty,
I can post the picture if you could send it to me, southeastregion@ccwbra.com.
Rick Loewen
Southeast Region Fleet Captain
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