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Marty, this is my 5th year using that bow handle and the boat is often carried with the motor mounted. So yes, it can handle the weight. I also got chrome plated cast zinc handles for my transom, and same as for the bow handle, I got them on Amazon. Here is the link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HAEIO2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi Marty,
I found mine on Amazon. They are still available here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FCI7OE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi John,
I cannot really speak from experience with regard to the early or late classic motors since I am not running either. But it is getting harder to find all of the 2 stroke OMC motors, thus the Tohatsu 4 stroke motor class was added. So if it were me, as long as it fit my budget, I would start with the Tohatsu. As far as compatibility, are you referring to the Tohatsu motor being compatible with the remote control unit you use? I think that Fred Allerton uses the same remote control unit for all of his motors, including his Tohatsu. So maybe he can shed some light on that subject.
PS – You can also edit your profile to add biographical info. So if someone clicks on your profile picture it will take them to your profile and display not only the photo you uploaded per Peter’s instructions, but will display the biographical info you post.
Marty, if my recollection is correct, Interlux Brightsides is actually a deck paint and is not intended to be used on the hull. Several CLC builders, myself included, have discovered that the paint will blister if left exposed to moisture for too long. If the bunks on my trailer get wet I have to lift my boat and put a piece of non-absorbent material between the boat hull and the bunk to avoid blistering.
Looks great TX! I am no expert with varnishing TX and can only tell you what I did, which was light sanding between coats with 400 paper and no sanding on the last coat. I am sure that there are CCWBRA members with lots of experience with varnish who could give you some good advice.
Hi TX,
Each of us has our own preference about how we rig our boats, so I can only tell you what approach I took. I use Uflex control boxes and cables. I rig each motor with it’s own box. Here is a photo of the boxes:
If you contact Uflex they will tell you which cables and connectors to use with your motor. It is pretty straightforward and they are very helpful.
My 6hp is a 1992 Johnson and you basically cannot find the parts to rig the motor and box for remote transmission shifting. Most racers who have not been able to rig their motor for remote shifting use only the remote throttle lever and shift the transmission on the motor itself. It is a little awkward at first, but you get used to it quickly. I hope that this helps.
Jeff Weeber
High Gravity 1.100
Ben, the boat is looking good! Great to see another group of enthusiastic builders. I am not the most experienced builder, but I would be happy to answer any questions I can or to point you to someone who can. I look forward to seeing you on the water!
I am also looking forward to Urbanna, and looking forward to seeing everyone after the winter break. Jack, I am glad to see you will be there! We have a good number of registrants already and I am sure more will be coming in over the next week.
Per Fred’s comments, I reinforced my transom with a 1/4″ aluminum plate. I spoke with Fred about this before my build and decided to not carve out my transom, so I have the full depth of the transom plus the aluminum plate. So far no cracking after 4 years of CCWBRA racing. Here is photo that was just after finishing the build and before I tried to punch a hole in the transom when shaking the boat down with Fred Allerton, Tom Kerr and Steve Brendlinger! After shakedown I added a 1/4″ aluminum thrust plate and sawed off the forward part of the upper cavitation plate.
Ben, per your request here are some photos of my really ancient lowboy fuel tank. Not great photos, but I think that they will give you an idea of the profile of the tank. Though not as pretty as Fred’s lowboy, I think it is a little shorter. If I did not have a tank with this low profile I do not think that I could get it under the steering wheel of my CLC kit boat, and would have had to devise a removable steering wheel.
