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Hi Scott,
I used an insert that was screwed in from the inner side of the tank. I think that they are brass fittings, and I think that I got them at a big box store so they should be readily available.
The control box I use is a Uflex box, and I believe that it will work with any motor you may want to run. They are considerably less expensive that the proprietary control boxes that you would buy from Tohatsu or any other original manufacturer equipment. The cables are easy to get too. A phone call to Uflex and they will tell you what cables you need to order for your motor. Here is the link to the control boxes on the Uflex site: http://www.ultraflexgroup.com/en/catalogue/two-lever-controls/08a08c-1/883/two-lever-side-mount-controls.html?lang=2. There is a PDF with the dimensions on the web page. Below is a photo showing several boats with the Uflex box mounted. I hope that this helps.
Hi Scot,
I did not hesitate to screw through the cockpit sides of the side tanks, or the floor for that matter, because I was going to plug the holes with screws or bolts. I have not yet flipped my boat, not that I haven’t tried (my friend who helped me to build my boat says that if I have not yet flipped I must not be trying hard enough), but I figured that if/when I flip the boat will not be in the water long enough to be compromised, even if it does take on some water. Steve Brendlinger’s boat got a fairly serious puncture in it’s side at Lehigh a couple of years ago and I ran 2 races in it before we figured out that it was punctured. So I would not be too worried about screwing into the tanks.
I did a bungee style keeper for my paddle. I run the fuel line from the tank, which resides in the forward hold, through the same bungees that hold the paddle to the tank to the motor, in order to keep the fuel lines contained while the boat is in use.
For the control box, I am lazy and want quick motor swaps, so I attach a control box to each motor. I backed the tank with 1/4 inch marine plywood and then put in threaded inserts so that I can use a bolt with a knob grip to tighten the control box to the tank side.
As for the tank, I backed along the center line (what I think would be called the inner keel) in the forward hold. and then screwed straps into the floor in that area to hold down the tank.
I’m not sure if this post helps you, but I hope that it give you some useful info. The great thing about Cocktail Class is that ever builder approaches his/her build differently, and there is not necessarily a right way to do things. It is great to see what comes out of innovative minds!
Hi Corey,
Welcome to the CCWBRA! I look forward to meeting you and to seeing you ate this year’s races!
We are working on getting the calendar set for next year, but it appears that the dates for the Florida races are Governor’s Cup at Smyrna Yacht Club on Saturday March 7, 2020 and the Lake Placid Race on Tuesday March 10. We will be sending out a “Save the Date” notice shortly.
I agree with TK. Great write up on Nationals Kim. Thanks to Rock Hall Yacht Club and to all those who worked hard to put on a great event. We had the best time at Nationals again this year!
Hi Tx,
Your boat came out great and it looks like it is running pretty flat right out of the gate. Now it is time to race that beauty and get some patina on that beautiful finish!
Marty, this is my 5th year using that bow handle and the boat is often carried with the motor mounted. So yes, it can handle the weight. I also got chrome plated cast zinc handles for my transom, and same as for the bow handle, I got them on Amazon. Here is the link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HAEIO2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi Marty,
I found mine on Amazon. They are still available here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FCI7OE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi John,
I cannot really speak from experience with regard to the early or late classic motors since I am not running either. But it is getting harder to find all of the 2 stroke OMC motors, thus the Tohatsu 4 stroke motor class was added. So if it were me, as long as it fit my budget, I would start with the Tohatsu. As far as compatibility, are you referring to the Tohatsu motor being compatible with the remote control unit you use? I think that Fred Allerton uses the same remote control unit for all of his motors, including his Tohatsu. So maybe he can shed some light on that subject.
Marty, if my recollection is correct, Interlux Brightsides is actually a deck paint and is not intended to be used on the hull. Several CLC builders, myself included, have discovered that the paint will blister if left exposed to moisture for too long. If the bunks on my trailer get wet I have to lift my boat and put a piece of non-absorbent material between the boat hull and the bunk to avoid blistering.
Looks great TX! I am no expert with varnishing TX and can only tell you what I did, which was light sanding between coats with 400 paper and no sanding on the last coat. I am sure that there are CCWBRA members with lots of experience with varnish who could give you some good advice.
Hi TX,
Each of us has our own preference about how we rig our boats, so I can only tell you what approach I took. I use Uflex control boxes and cables. I rig each motor with it’s own box. Here is a photo of the boxes:
If you contact Uflex they will tell you which cables and connectors to use with your motor. It is pretty straightforward and they are very helpful.
My 6hp is a 1992 Johnson and you basically cannot find the parts to rig the motor and box for remote transmission shifting. Most racers who have not been able to rig their motor for remote shifting use only the remote throttle lever and shift the transmission on the motor itself. It is a little awkward at first, but you get used to it quickly. I hope that this helps.
Jeff Weeber
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