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I am also looking forward to Urbanna, and looking forward to seeing everyone after the winter break. Jack, I am glad to see you will be there! We have a good number of registrants already and I am sure more will be coming in over the next week.
Per Fred’s comments, I reinforced my transom with a 1/4″ aluminum plate. I spoke with Fred about this before my build and decided to not carve out my transom, so I have the full depth of the transom plus the aluminum plate. So far no cracking after 4 years of CCWBRA racing. Here is photo that was just after finishing the build and before I tried to punch a hole in the transom when shaking the boat down with Fred Allerton, Tom Kerr and Steve Brendlinger! After shakedown I added a 1/4″ aluminum thrust plate and sawed off the forward part of the upper cavitation plate.
Ben, per your request here are some photos of my really ancient lowboy fuel tank. Not great photos, but I think that they will give you an idea of the profile of the tank. Though not as pretty as Fred’s lowboy, I think it is a little shorter. If I did not have a tank with this low profile I do not think that I could get it under the steering wheel of my CLC kit boat, and would have had to devise a removable steering wheel.
I will get a photo of my fuel tank for you and post it on this forum. It is a very old all metal tank, probably from the 60s, so not a common find. I think that most of the boats that house the fuel tank in the forward compartment have removable steering wheels.
Ben,
Ditto Todd’s comments on the 6hp Tohatsu. You won’t have any trouble getting on plane and once on plane you will get plenty of speed out of the motor.
Hi Ben,
I am not using the steering setup that CLC provided or what is described in the building manual. I am using plastic coated steel cables that are run through Brown Manufacturing coaming pulleys and directly to the motor, with no pulleys being used to provide leverage. Jack Pettigrew had this on his boat and I liked what I saw so I mimicked his setup. The steering is very quick, but can be unforgiving.
Hi Ben,
Some people do use the Brown Manufacturing thrust brackets. Because I did not carve out my transom my motor sits very close to the bottom of the transom and I would not have room for the Brown bracket. I almost punched a hole in the transom when I first started running the boat, so I made a 1/4 inch aluminum plate to protect the hull. I guess it serves the same purpose as the thrust bracket. It really takes a beating, so I am not too sure that plywood would hold up sufficiently.
In the recent past I do not see many fuel cells in use, but I am sure that there are some out there. I think that most racers utilize removable tanks. I use a removable low boy tank that slides under the steering wheel and into the open compartment forward of the steering bulkhead. If you mount a fuel cell and would like to have a fuel cap protruding from the desk I am pretty sure that will be OK, but we need to leave it to the safety committee. I will see if I can get an answer for you.
Hi Rick,
The part you are looking for has become extremely difficult to find. When you do find one you will pay through the nose. Many CCWBRA racers, myself included, simple use the shift lever on the motor.
I hope that you get to the Governor’s Cup! Have fun.
Terry, are you building from a kit or from plans? It is my understanding that if you are building from a CLC kit the dimensions of the kit parts are considered acceptable. If you are building from plans the building manual says 15.5 inches from bottom of the hull to tip center of the transom, plus or minus .25 inches. I hope that this helps.