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Glad to hear it all went well. With Tom and Fred involved, it is no surprise!
It’s bee a bit quiet up there, you guys have slipped a couple races by on us kind of quietly…
Tell us more!
Rick
SE Region Fleet Captain
It’s Five O’Clock SomewhereThe part number for the Service Manual is 0507614 as listed in the parts breakout at Crowley Marine
There is one available on eBay, but the cover shows it is for Colt/Junior also. I think many of the manuals cover a number of motors, but you might want to check with the seller first.
The parts I was trying to locate were for a ’93 up model. The parts for your older style ’87 will likely be more available. I also have an ’89 7.5 HP model which has the angled engine cowl like yours and I think you will find that it uses the same parts. I managed to find a #0431840 kit of parts on eBay for about $40 which will connect both the throttle and shift cables to your engine. Looking for that part on eBay today, you might not be as lucky as I was on the price, it is about $100-$140 right now. I am finding that it is common to have as much or more $ invested in controls as you do a motor at times. For the adapter kit reference, see this. You can download the installation instructions PDF file here.
I would recommend to use a Uflex B47 (light grey) or B49 (black) control box. I believe you will need C14 cables for ’79 up engines and a K23 Connection Kit to adapt the cables.
I used Uflex C14x05 cables which are 5′ length. Several racers I talked to thought they might be too short, but I found them to work OK. I was not able to anchor them to the cockpit side, but they work well. Most dealers don’t stock the 5′ so I had to have them special ordered, but I did find some available on eBay
The vintage control boxes go for way too much money and some are not as interchangeable with different motors as the Uflex are. There are two OMC control boxes- 0381371 and 0173286 that look almost the same but are different where the cable ends connect.
Rick
Sorry, it was MarineEngine.com. My bad! I slipped up on that because I used to deal with the Depot in a previous hobby.
As I’m sure you know, they are one of the three internet dealers that will always come up on a google search but seldom have the parts in stock you are looking for. As I continued to search I suddenly found one listed by two of the online dealers. When I called to make sure they really had it, it was in a different warehouse. It might have easily been another dealers stock, but I was able to get it.
Do you have any of the needed parts? What do you need and for what year and HP?
Rick
Ben, eBay has several shift and throttle adapter kits for the older OMC 6&8 HP motors, part 431840. Those are the motor with the angled hood (1980-1990).
The later model kit (’91-’04) are nearly impossible to find, but there were two available when I was putting mine together, I got one of them. The kit part # is 5000521, used on 5, 6 and 8 HP. This part number superseded older versions, 043521 and 0436267. I believe some of the differences we on the shift link, part #339774 was changed when the power pack was moved next to the shift lever pivot bolt (maybe after ’91 and ’92). It it was modified to go straight forward and down to the shift connector. It was also changed again at a later time to strengthen it, stepping up the diameter of the rod in the center portion. My motors are ’93 and ’98 and the kit worked ok. The kit installation instructions are available at http://www.dealerport.com/dealerport/instructionsheets/PDF/345746_screen.pdf .
Another great resource is LeeRoy’s Ramblings
Thanks for the info, but I made one last effort and found a kit available from Marine Depot. I have it installed and working great!
Rick Loewn
It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere #500
Terry,
From the CCWBRA Racing Handbook 2019 under Resources on this website:
3.2.9 The transom height shall be between 15.25” and 15.75” with a nominal height of 15.5 “ as defined in the Building Manual.
Rick Loewen
Rumrunners Fleet Captain, SE Region
It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere #500
I am still looking for a OMC shift lever (336463) used to connect the shift control cable in the motor. Thanks for sending the lever you found, but it I just realized that was the similar lever for the throttle that mounts next to it.
If anyone has one that might be able to send me detailed measurements, I would like to fabricate one, and possibly more for anyone else in need of one.
I am nearing completion of my boat and hope to have it ready or at least running for the Governors Cup and Midwinters.
Rick Loewn
It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere #500
Sam,
Sorry, perhaps I should have started a different post for the engine height issue. I think that I will be able to get the motor level with a little more block angle. My issue, however is that it appears that my cavitation plate will end up about 1 5/8″ below the bottom of the boat, far below what is accepted for general setup guidelines.
Sam,
I agree with your advice about starting the motor setup with the height. I am working on my setup now and I tried to get the bottom of the cavitation plate parallel with the bottom of the boat. I had a 7/8” block at the top of the transom and the cavitation plate still needed to come up another 3/4”. I had a 7 degree wedge and still need another 3 degrees to make 90 and that will make it need even more transom height.
I read that the maximum transom height is 15 3/4” and anything fixed to the transom must be included in that measurement. How is it possible to set this up correctly?
Marty,
How did the PVC clamps work out for you? I will be joining my deck in the next week or so, looking for any feedback. I cut a 10′ length of schedule 40 3″ and another 4″ both into 1 1/2″ clamps. It looks like it will work well.
How far along is the project?
Rick
You can purchase the plans from this website in the Ship Shop for $30. You will be using a jig to build these plans. Where are you located? We might be able to find someone that has a jig in your area.
Rick Loewen
Southeast Region Fleet Captain
Thanks, Charlie
If you were to follow the uflex measuring instructions, they would recommend an 8′ cable by the time they add three feet extra. Now I understand why so many boats have a spring trap flying in the air behind them!
From my research so far, I would need a Uflex C14x06 for a 6′ cable, a K23 kit and a B49 or B47 box. There is a 5′ cable available, but the tape measure says it might be a little tight. It is good to know a 6′ will work. If anyone is using a 5′ I would be interested to hear.
I would also like to hear the pros and cons between a new uflex control box, the rectangular OMC Simplex and OMC ShipMaster (are they the same thing?) and the older more rounded models OMC. I have heard that the OMC are much more durable than the Uflex, but an old beat up control box does not look as nice as a shiny new one.
Rick
SE RumRunner Fleet Captain
I am also building a CLC boat, but I sourced my material locally and used the CLC plans. Since I used a 4 x 8 sheet for the deck, I don’t have the king plank joint like you do, but I still have the problem of all those clamps.
When I get to clamping the deck, I plan to experiment with using PVC pipe to make some inexpensive clamps. It will take a little experimentation and trial & error, but if it works out, I can have as many clamps as I need for very little expense. I am also going to make a tool, kind of like a c-clip expanding tool to place the clamps on the boat. It will be something like a pair of pliers with some metal rod bent and welded to them so that two parallel prongs will expand when the handles are squeezed causing the clamps to open. Here is a video that explains the clamps. This is another video that adds handles to the clamps. If anyone tries this, let us know what diameter and pipe length works best.
Rick