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I would highly recommend following the manufacturer’s specs on your specific application. The forums and product ratings have lots of questions and answers about these issues, but it would be much safer to go to the manufacturer or distributors for the answers. This is something you don’t want to get wrong. Interlux Pre-Kote does specifically say not to use it below the waterline, so maybe it would be best to get their interpretation of use below the waterline. I saw a different product recommendation that said even overnight in the water is not recommended, but that was not Interlux.
Interlux is a popular product with some major distributors offering support, so I would make a call to a support technician to get an interpretation from Interlux for our specific application. And let us know what you find out.
Rick
I hope this isn’t too late, but here is some info from a friend that gave me his recipe for finishing epoxy. He used to race small hydroplane racers and has a lot of experience and good advice.
Epoxy- I use 120 grit between coats with orbital palm sander, needs to be dull all over for next coat in order for mechanical bond. Last coat before varnish I sand epoxy with 220 grit with orbital then hand sand with 360 wet with some dish soap in water. I use low to medium revs on the sander. Any swirls left in the epoxy will be visible later. If you get the coats on at the right time there can be a somewhat chemical bond, depends on temp and tack condition of epoxy, this approach certainly saves time and labor but the last coat needs to be sanded for varnish or paint.
I apply the epoxy with 3/16″ thick x 9″ long yellow foam roller by Wooster(Lowes SKU 71497 11626 might have got it a Home Depot you can check with SKU)and tip with a 4″ foam brush (Walmart) for large areas. These rollers fit standard roller handle they can be cut shorter and they make a 7″ roller to fit these roller tubes. They are not reusable, hard to get all epoxy out. They do make small foam rollers that fit on the small pin type handles. When all the epoxy is rolled on I do the applied area with a final roller to get as uniform as I can, then tip in one direction with the foam brush to knock the bubbles off.
BTW you can clean up un-cured still flow-able epoxy with white vinegar, cheap and non toxic to skin.
For varnish I sand between coats with 360 wet with some dish soap in water. 3 coats of varnish is all that is needed to protect epoxy unless you want more. I use Minwax Spar Varnish Clear Gloss oil base and roll it on with the same type roller as with the epoxy and tip it with a foam brush. When all the varnish is rolled on I do the applied area with a final roller to get as uniform as I can, then tip in one direction with the foam brush to knock the bubbles off. For small areas I just use the foam brush. Get the varnish on quick and uniform, that is the key no need to work up a lather. Always work the varnish from dry to the last wet edge. I always test the varnish for flow-out for the conditions of the day if it does not lay down in 5 minutes with a perfect gloss I add some paint thinner. When temps are above 85 to hot for varnish. I shoot for 75 in the am for best results.
If you want to buff the last coat of varnish let it dry for about a week or two then 3,000 wet sand with (Walmart automotive) 3M polish finishing pad. Add dish soap to water, wipe dry then hand sand with 5000 wet (might be hard to find) with dish soap. I then machine buff with a foam pad (about 1″ thick) with a variable speed Harbor Freight machine (low to medium rpm) using Turtle wax scratch and swirl remover about $3 at Walmart.
If you do not want to buff, then leave the last varnish coat alone and it is what it is.
I use alcohol to wipe down between coats of epoxy or varnish then a tack cloth.
Ask any questions about above, engine set up, etc. , keep me posted, nice boat and work. Looks like a fun ride.
Pete Sushinsky
Rick Loewen
Rumrunner SE Fleet Captain
It’s 5 O’ Clock Somewhere #500Glad to hear it all went well. With Tom and Fred involved, it is no surprise!
It’s bee a bit quiet up there, you guys have slipped a couple races by on us kind of quietly…
Tell us more!
Rick
SE Region Fleet Captain
It’s Five O’Clock SomewhereThe part number for the Service Manual is 0507614 as listed in the parts breakout at Crowley Marine
There is one available on eBay, but the cover shows it is for Colt/Junior also. I think many of the manuals cover a number of motors, but you might want to check with the seller first.
The parts I was trying to locate were for a ’93 up model. The parts for your older style ’87 will likely be more available. I also have an ’89 7.5 HP model which has the angled engine cowl like yours and I think you will find that it uses the same parts. I managed to find a #0431840 kit of parts on eBay for about $40 which will connect both the throttle and shift cables to your engine. Looking for that part on eBay today, you might not be as lucky as I was on the price, it is about $100-$140 right now. I am finding that it is common to have as much or more $ invested in controls as you do a motor at times. For the adapter kit reference, see this. You can download the installation instructions PDF file here.
I would recommend to use a Uflex B47 (light grey) or B49 (black) control box. I believe you will need C14 cables for ’79 up engines and a K23 Connection Kit to adapt the cables.
I used Uflex C14x05 cables which are 5′ length. Several racers I talked to thought they might be too short, but I found them to work OK. I was not able to anchor them to the cockpit side, but they work well. Most dealers don’t stock the 5′ so I had to have them special ordered, but I did find some available on eBay
The vintage control boxes go for way too much money and some are not as interchangeable with different motors as the Uflex are. There are two OMC control boxes- 0381371 and 0173286 that look almost the same but are different where the cable ends connect.
Rick
Sorry, it was MarineEngine.com. My bad! I slipped up on that because I used to deal with the Depot in a previous hobby.
As I’m sure you know, they are one of the three internet dealers that will always come up on a google search but seldom have the parts in stock you are looking for. As I continued to search I suddenly found one listed by two of the online dealers. When I called to make sure they really had it, it was in a different warehouse. It might have easily been another dealers stock, but I was able to get it.
Do you have any of the needed parts? What do you need and for what year and HP?
Rick
Ben, eBay has several shift and throttle adapter kits for the older OMC 6&8 HP motors, part 431840. Those are the motor with the angled hood (1980-1990).
The later model kit (’91-’04) are nearly impossible to find, but there were two available when I was putting mine together, I got one of them. The kit part # is 5000521, used on 5, 6 and 8 HP. This part number superseded older versions, 043521 and 0436267. I believe some of the differences we on the shift link, part #339774 was changed when the power pack was moved next to the shift lever pivot bolt (maybe after ’91 and ’92). It it was modified to go straight forward and down to the shift connector. It was also changed again at a later time to strengthen it, stepping up the diameter of the rod in the center portion. My motors are ’93 and ’98 and the kit worked ok. The kit installation instructions are available at http://www.dealerport.com/dealerport/instructionsheets/PDF/345746_screen.pdf .
Another great resource is LeeRoy’s Ramblings
Thanks for the info, but I made one last effort and found a kit available from Marine Depot. I have it installed and working great!
Rick Loewn
It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere #500
Terry,
From the CCWBRA Racing Handbook 2019 under Resources on this website:
3.2.9 The transom height shall be between 15.25” and 15.75” with a nominal height of 15.5 “ as defined in the Building Manual.
Rick Loewen
Rumrunners Fleet Captain, SE Region
It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere #500
I am still looking for a OMC shift lever (336463) used to connect the shift control cable in the motor. Thanks for sending the lever you found, but it I just realized that was the similar lever for the throttle that mounts next to it.
If anyone has one that might be able to send me detailed measurements, I would like to fabricate one, and possibly more for anyone else in need of one.
I am nearing completion of my boat and hope to have it ready or at least running for the Governors Cup and Midwinters.
Rick Loewn
It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere #500
Sam,
Sorry, perhaps I should have started a different post for the engine height issue. I think that I will be able to get the motor level with a little more block angle. My issue, however is that it appears that my cavitation plate will end up about 1 5/8″ below the bottom of the boat, far below what is accepted for general setup guidelines.
Sam,
I agree with your advice about starting the motor setup with the height. I am working on my setup now and I tried to get the bottom of the cavitation plate parallel with the bottom of the boat. I had a 7/8” block at the top of the transom and the cavitation plate still needed to come up another 3/4”. I had a 7 degree wedge and still need another 3 degrees to make 90 and that will make it need even more transom height.
I read that the maximum transom height is 15 3/4” and anything fixed to the transom must be included in that measurement. How is it possible to set this up correctly?
Marty,
How did the PVC clamps work out for you? I will be joining my deck in the next week or so, looking for any feedback. I cut a 10′ length of schedule 40 3″ and another 4″ both into 1 1/2″ clamps. It looks like it will work well.
How far along is the project?
Rick
You can purchase the plans from this website in the Ship Shop for $30. You will be using a jig to build these plans. Where are you located? We might be able to find someone that has a jig in your area.
Rick Loewen
Southeast Region Fleet Captain
Thanks, Charlie
If you were to follow the uflex measuring instructions, they would recommend an 8′ cable by the time they add three feet extra. Now I understand why so many boats have a spring trap flying in the air behind them!
From my research so far, I would need a Uflex C14x06 for a 6′ cable, a K23 kit and a B49 or B47 box. There is a 5′ cable available, but the tape measure says it might be a little tight. It is good to know a 6′ will work. If anyone is using a 5′ I would be interested to hear.
I would also like to hear the pros and cons between a new uflex control box, the rectangular OMC Simplex and OMC ShipMaster (are they the same thing?) and the older more rounded models OMC. I have heard that the OMC are much more durable than the Uflex, but an old beat up control box does not look as nice as a shiny new one.
Rick
SE RumRunner Fleet Captain